freedom

Ron · Post by **Ron** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:54 pm

like the looks of this boat but have question is this boat glassed inside if not how is it sealed

Thanks

Ron

Post by **jem** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:59 pm

Yes you apply fiberglass to the inside and outside.

The building plans give you the option of just glassing the seams or applying fiberglass to the entire inner and outer surfaces.

gken · Post by **gken** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:01 am

What kind of fiber glass are you using on the outside of the boat to maintain the beauty of the wood? All the glass I have seen/used is clearly visible even with the resin over it. I just ordered the freedom plans myself, and figured that you only glassed the inside.

Oldsparkey · Post by **Oldsparkey** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:12 pm

Hi ... This is Chuck.

I used 7.50 oz glass on the hull and 6 oz on the deck. I usually use 3.25 tight woven glass but since I planed on using this in salt water ( the Everglades and 10,000 Islands part of Florida ) I increased the weight of the glass on the hull. ( I will not swear to it but I think I put 7 or 8 coats of epoxy over the glass as a safety factor , could of been more , it was overkill on the epoxy on my behalf ).

Then added three coats of the graphite and epoxy mix as added insurance to protect the hull because of the oyster shells down there.
I intend to avoid the oyster shells when possible but sometimes they get you before you know they are there.

Chuck.

Post by **jem** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:42 pm

standard e-glass in the 6-ounce weight range wets out clear. Sometime you see some lines because it need a couple more coats of epoxy to fill in the weave. What you're actually seeing is the light reflecting off the uneven surface.

Once you apply a couple coats of epoxy, the fiberglass is transparent.

gken · Post by **gken** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 3:30 pm

Excellent, Thanks for the info. The pictures that you guys have posted on here are beautiful. That is one of the prettiest kayaks I have ever seen. It will be my first build, but I have an experienced wood worker the help me. I also have an experienced glasser to help me with those steps. Are there any tips that arent in the build plan that you might have for a first timer? Other than take my time and measure, measure? Thanks, Garrett

gken · Post by **gken** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 3:35 pm

Also, I was only able to get 4 sheets of 4mil okoume from my supplier. He said other sizes are to expensive and hard for them to get. Seems silly because I live in coastal Maine, but thats all I could find. Will that be enough for the bottom panel? What do you reccomend? -Garrett

Post by **jem** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 3:47 pm

There's plenty other tips and trick you can do other than the one-page provided in the plans. So many that it's hard to mention them all specifically.

But the biggest one I feel is to plan your work steps. Have an idea of what you want to accomplish in one building "session" and then get all your tools, paper towels, fans, mixing cups, fiberglass measured and cut, drop cloths, etc set up before you pump any epoxy.

That's one of the hardest habbits I had to break....I'd start doing something and didn't think ahead if I had some paper towel or extra brushes ready. Then my tools would get all covered in epoxy. Buy yourself a cheap plastic paper towel holder and mount it in your building area. so much easier to grab and tear off a piece than trying to pick up an entire roll.

As far as the 4mm, the biggest concern I'd have is some oil canning (bottom hull panel flexing inward) when you're on the water. Some extra fiberglass, glue on small flat ribs to the hull interior, or installing the low seat bench shown in the plans will address that.

Also, the coaming pieces are set up so the stack up is 3/4" from the very top coaming layer to the deck. 3/4" is a good space so you don't get your finger pinched and twisted under the coaming. You might want to consider adding one additional lower comaing layer before adding the top layer so you get the full 3/4" clearance. If the top layer feels like it flexes too much, you could add an additional layer there as well.

Oldsparkey · Post by **Oldsparkey** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 3:49 pm

Garrett

I am not an expert in anything , just an old swamp stomped down here in the muck and mire with the gators an snakes who likes wood boats and if I can build one then I know you can.

Building it is a lot of fun , the anticipation of the final item makes you have really pleasant dreams at night about how you will enjoy it when it is done. Then when it is done the fun starts ......... Paddling and using it.

One thing I need to warn you about because it got me........ Measure ... then remeasure everything before you do any cutting. I have never made that mistake before but I did when building this one...... Came to find out the little lip on the end of the tape was loose and would move when pressure was put on it....... When that problem was corrected then the rest was no problem , just fun , but it did cost me an additional sheet of wood.

That was my mistake and as with all of them I make I learned from it.

So check your equipment , tools and then measure twice , cut once and you will have a fun boat.

You think it is pretty looking at it ..... wait till you have yours and are paddling it , it is even nicer then.

Not sure about your 4 ml thick wood , I go with the normal measurements ....... Mine was made from 1/8th thick wood. On dry ground there is a little oil canning but in the water .... none , due to the water pressure shoving against the hull when the paddlers weight is in there.
When the deck is placed on it and secured , the boat becomes really strong , till then it wants to flex. Together it is one solid boat.

The wood gives it the character , the fiberglass and epoxy gives it the strength , follow Matt's plans and instructions and you will have a good boat.
When I built the prototype for Matt all I had was the plans .... no instructions and you have seen what I have for some paddling pleasure.

Matt knew I would not follow the plans and make some changes along the way so he saved the paper.

(Only thing I changed was the bulkheads , one open and one as a hatch ) Everything is just as Matt designed it , if it survived me making it then it is a survivor..

Chuck.

Kayak Jack · Post by **Kayak Jack** » Wed Feb 21, 2007 3:54 pm

Chuck, that little tip on the end of a tape measure is SUPPOSED to move. It moves the distance of the thickness of the little 90 degree end. That allows for accuracy on both inside and outside measurements.