filling the weave

[NeilJ]

Hello folks, I have just applied my first fill coat on my DK Dingy. I think I put it on pretty thin and wonder how many times I am going to have to fill the weave? Is it OK to put the next layer a little thicker so I can get it flipped over and start on the gunnels and seats? How many coats does it usually take you guys? My cloth is 4oz and I put two layers on the bottom. The cloth is 50" wide so at the widest part (max beam?) the cloth went from second chine to its far shear line so the bottom has two layers and the sides just one but I think it should be plenty stiff. The cloth was very easy to wet out and I am pleased with the result. I am using the slow hardener from US Composites so I had plenty of time to work and it is curing slow enough that I am pretty sure I am getting a good chemical bond between layers. It has been very cold here in Alabama this weekend so I have had plenty of time.
Thanks for your help.

Neil

[hairymick]

Hi Neil,

Goodonya maaaaate

Re the weeve fill thing, not sure with the double layers of 4oz cloth. I would just keep putting succesive layers on till the cloth is completely filled.

On my boats, using a single layer of much lighter cloth, it usually takes me about 4 to 5 coates to properly fill out the weave. Each coat, you will use noticeably less resin. I apply it pretty thinly though to avoid resin runs and unnecessary sanding. Also, the weather here is considerably warmer and I can get at least three coats on in a day.

Mate, I wouldn't be in too much hurry to turn the boat over. If you don't finish the bottom now, you will only have to turn it back later on. You can only do one side at a time. (inside or outside)

Any chance of a couple of piccies please mate. I really like the looks of the DK dingies and would like to watch one being built. When I get too old and frail to paddle, something like this with a leccy motor might be just the ticket.

[dangermouse01]

Given the nature of woven cloth, a fiber going over one fiber (high spot) and then under the next one (low spot), each additional coat of epoxy will build on to the high spots along with filling the lows. After the third coat of epoxy (second fill coat) has hardened I would run a carbide paint scraper lightly over the entire glassed area. This will basically shave a thin layer of epoxy of of the high spots. Lightly is the key word. You dont want to get down to the cloth, just remove epoxy off the crowns.
On my Wadefish 2.0 (6 oz cloth) I applied the epoxy with a plastic squeegie for every coat, I ran the scraper over the hull after the second coat of epoxy (first fill coat), VERY LIGHTLY. Hardly adding any pressure, just using a little bit more than the weight of the scraper to do the work. Squeegied on the third coat and left it at that for now. When I sand the entire boat, I will squeegie on another thin coat to get the rest of the low spots filled.

Carbide scrapers can be found in the paint department of the hardware stores. I got mine from ACE hardware, 2" wide blade and the smaller triangular 3 sided blade.

Applying a thicker layer, gravity comes into play and the epoxy will most likely have more runs and drips and everything is going to want to run towards the ground before it cures.

DM

[jem]

To get the best finish, apply a thin layer, lightly scrape and/or sand, and keep going until you get the finish you like. How many times this takes depends on the finish you want. With 4-ounce cloth, I'd think the weave should be filled nicely with 3-4 coats at most.

What I've done to get little thicker resin that levels off the bumps a little bit is add a small amount of woodflour to the resin to thicken it just a bit. not a lot. Maybe like runny pancake syrup.

2 things to be careful of:

1) It will be a little harder to sand (but it will give a harder surface)
2) Be sure to be consistent with the amount of woodflour added amoung batches so you get a consistent color.

[Mullet_Key]

What DM and Matt said. As soon as my first fill coat is no longer tacky, I take my scraper and take excess epoxy off the top of the cloth, the crown, like DM said before adding another fill coat. 1.] You'll use less epoxy (reduced surface area), 2.] Sand less, 3.] better overall finish, 4.] lower boat weight, and 5.] happier builder / kayaker.

You'll notice that your scraper gets dull after a few square feet of surface worked. It took me a while to get the knack, but with a small file I was able to lock my scraper in the vice and add a new burr to the blade and get back on the boat.

[NeilJ]

Thanks guys, Looking at it this evening I am pretty happy with it. The first fill coat feels a lot better than it looked right after spreading it on with my squeegie (bondo spreader). I will run my scraper on it tomorrow when it is less tacky. I have a couple of scrapers I bought at Harbor Fright (spelling intended). There is a lot of junk there but you cant beat the price for the 2" scraper. and the replacement blades for it were less than $4.00 for two! They are the ideal tool for removing epoxy. I am glad you told me to scrape between coats as I was going to try to apply while still tacky so it would get a good chemical bond. I think it will be close to done with the next coat. I dont want any extra epoxy than it needs.
Mick, waiting for epoxy to cure is never an issue for me. I feel very fortunate when I get a couple hours to work on my boat. I will try to post a few more pictures in the future. I love looking at your work and find it very inspiring! The time you it took to complete the South Wind was phenominal! When I grow up I want to be You . Thanks again for the advice.

Neil