Fibreglassing entire hull?

[Christopher]

My first Post - ever!

I will be a first time boat builder. The combination of my basic wood working skills and my lack of need for perfection should make this a successful project.

I think I am zeroing in on the Gander River. It would be for me and my two boys. We total about 350lbs of trouble. Leisure paddleing, maybe a little fishing on calm waters but no overnight camping etc. I really like the simplicity and light weight of the Iroquios but the transom on the Gander River really attracted me. I think a trolling motor may be in my future. Anyway....

Do you guys feel it is appropriate to fiberglass more than just the seams? Should I plan on fiberglassing the whole hull exterior? Should I just fibreglass the seams and then just epoxy the rest of the exterior? By the way, I think I am going to have a natural (bright) look - no paint. What do you recommend?

Also, Matt, is there a way or a 'trick' to get plans for the Gander River so that the 'butt seams' do NOT line up? Kinda like when I put down my hardwood floors - I want to stager the seams for the sake of appearance. Your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for all those who post a reply. I look to your experience and expertise.

- Chris

[jem]

My first Post - ever!

I will be a first time boat builder. The combination of my basic wood working skills and my lack of need for perfection should make this a successful project.

I think I am zeroing in on the Gander River. It would be for me and my two boys. We total about 350lbs of trouble. Leisure paddleing, maybe a little fishing on calm waters but no overnight camping etc. I really like the simplicity and light weight of the Iroquios but the transom on the Gander River really attracted me. I think a trolling motor may be in my future. Anyway....

Do you guys feel it is appropriate to fiberglass more than just the seams? Should I plan on fiberglassing the whole hull exterior? Should I just fibreglass the seams and then just epoxy the rest of the exterior? By the way, I think I am going to have a natural (bright) look - no paint. What do you recommend?

Also, Matt, is there a way or a 'trick' to get plans for the Gander River so that the 'butt seams' do NOT line up? Kinda like when I put down my hardwood floors - I want to stager the seams for the sake of appearance. Your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for all those who post a reply. I look to your experience and expertise.

- Chris

Welcome aboard!

Fiberglass the entire hull offer more protection than just taping the seams. Depending on the quality of wood, you could develop checking (small cracks) over time. Marine grade ply almost never does this (except in extreme circumstances). Fiberglass helps protect against that. Finsihing a hull bright (natural wood) is no problem with complete coverage since it wets out clear.

There is potential for some weight savings but that has more to do with builder skills.

Taping the seams is a less expensive option but be mindful of appropriate plywood tickenesses for each options. Plans will provide that info.

As far as staggering the seams, it can be done with a little extra work and plywood.

1) trace the plywood panel and cut out per the plans using cheap plywood
2) join the shorter pieces to make the longer panels (good practice)
3) get two piece of plywood you'll use for the hull and lay ends to end the long way.
4) then lay your panels on top of the wood you'll use for the hull and position so the seams are staggered the way you want.

It's a longer process and will probably require extra sheets of plywood. Otherwise I'd have to redraw everything and that would require a significant fee.

[Christopher]

Thanks.

In summation:
I WILL use marine grade plywood
I WILL fiberglass the seams on the exterior only
I will NOT fiberglass the entire hull
I WILL epoxy coat both the interior and the exterior hull

Any mistakes there?

Great idea on the staggered seams.

I welcome others thoughts and ideas.

[jem]

you'll need to fiberglass tape the interior seams too.

[hairymick]

G'day Christopher and welcome aboard mate.!!

Re the staggering of the joint seams, You would probably gain a little in hull strength this way but that LITTLE extra strength is hardly worth all the extra effort to achieve IMHO.

I have built a few of Matts boats now (and abused the heck out of all of them) and the in-line butt joints have all stood up to my abuses very well. None have ever failed.

A couple of tips mate

1. Read the instructions - at least a couple of times.

2. Check your measurements BEFORE you cut

3. Ask questions if in doubt.

Oh yeah, and please post lots of piccies.

Good luck with the build mate.

[Christopher]

Mick,

Thanks for the advice. I really do appreciate it. The staggered seams are not really for strength but for aesthetics. I am going to have an unpainted, 'bright' canoe.

Matt,

Thanks for clarifying the interior seams being fibreglassed.

[hairymick]

G'day Christopher,

No problem mate. Only hope it helped a bit.

This is the beauty of building your own boat. You can build it to suit yourself.

If the asthetics please you this way then I can think of no reason not to doit. Tis a fine looking canoe.

[Kayak Jack]

Chris, may I ask you your intended uses for the boat?

If you are launching and landing where rocks, stones, oyster shells, etc. are not around, taping only seams will likely be OK.

Do you intend to take others, say children, in the boat with you?