Epoxying hull questions

buildingacanoe · Post by **buildingacanoe** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 5:55 pm

Hello all again, i've been on and off this forum for a long time now, i've been building my canoe for probably over a year

I am nearing completion, as the new pictures in my webshots show: http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/alb ... 5398iyhYfd (last three pictures on page 2)

Next weekend i plan on fiberglassing the final outside seams, then maybe starting to paint it with epoxy. My main question is: (i'm sure i've asked this before, but i've got a mind like a sieve) how should i know how thick the epoxy should be? Through my work on this boat, i've seen it all, the barely soaked into the grain to the glassy finish. what am i aiming for? Thanks for the help, any other things you notice in the pictures or any relevant tips would be great. thanks!

As a warning, soon i'll be following up with questions about the gunwals and seats.

-Nate (also, if i double posted this (I forgot to log in before i typed this, then re typed it after i logged in) delete the first one. sorry about that )

Post by **jem** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:19 pm

for wetting out fiberglass. do not thicken the epoxy.

You might want to download the free canoe plans. It has updated assembly instructions since last year.

buildingacanoe · Post by **buildingacanoe** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:25 pm

Thanks for the quick response, i'll check it out. what i meant was not about wetting out the tape, i think i have that down, but i mean painting the non fiberglassed areas.

Oldsparkey · Post by **Oldsparkey** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:35 pm

If you are getting ready to glass the boat ... then epoxy saturate it and let it set before glassing . When it is set then sand (Lightly ) to get rid of the whiskers the saturation caused . You will see what I am saying when you run your hand over the wood.

This is done but not a swift idea.......The saturation can be with a standard mix of the epoxy or you can dilute it with some acetone , not a lot just a little. If you use the acetone make sure there is no open flames or anything that might spark a fire in your general area , including water heaters , power tool , fires , smokers ... nothing with heat associated with it.

Epoxy saturating the wood gives the glass and the epoxy with it something to bond to for a better job and will work quite well with out the acetone to dilute it. The epoxy soaks into the wood bonding to it , then the epoxy with the fiberglass bonds to that epoxy which has bonded with the wood creating a good bond between all items making them one. .

NOW... When fiberglassing the boat DO NOT do anything with the epoxy but to use the proper mix as called for. This is critical , you want the epoxy and glass to bond with all the strength it has.

To properly do it after you get the glass on there and the epoxy cures , it usually requires one or more coats , I have used up to seven on some of my boats for a glass finish. You do want to fill the weave in the glass or should want to to make a really smooth finish.

All of us do it differently , all I know is that this works for me and I still have all my boats looking like new and they do get used. All of them are encased in fiberglass.

I noticed you are skipping the total glass encapsulation If you are skipping on the glass then epoxy saturate the wood , it will increase the strength of it and waterproof the part epoxied , paint over it if necessary or desired.

Personally ... I would glass the boat to protect it when paddling.

Chuck

buildingacanoe · Post by **buildingacanoe** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 7:52 pm

yeah, i chose to just fiberglass the seams, i wont be doing any river paddling except on big rivers like the delaware, i guess it wansnt the wisest choice, but i dont imagine lakes will be that brutal to the hull. Thanks for your help!

as a sidenote, the updated info is GrEAT!

Post by **jem** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:07 pm

For just covering bare ply, 3 coats is the minimum. I'd do about 5 thin coats on the bottom. Don't try applying thick coats all at once. You'll get a horrible looking orange-peel finish.

Kayak Jack · Post by **Kayak Jack** » Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:42 pm

Buildingacanoe,

You're right the lakes won't be too brutal to the boat. But those lakes have rocks in'em. Glass all over the outside will make it a lot more robust. Glass on the bottom inside makes the wood a lot tougher when the boat gets hung up on a pointy rock and the wood buckles inward.

You may be a better paddler than I am. Wouldn't surprise me any.