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strip build

Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 10:39 pm
by toolman
Matt, I am on a fixed income and had an idea for a strip build. Grey Owl Paddle Ltd. is right here in town and their cut offs are free for the takeing. They very in size but are usually 3/4" square. and it is the differant woods they use to laminate their paddles.Could I cut cut them down and run them through my plainer to be used for a strip build.I know it's a lot of work but I enjoy that kind of thing.Also the longest pieces are around 5' so I'd have to joint them length ways as well.Also from time to time we get the paddle ends and I've tried to make a double paddle for my wifes laker that I'm just finishing. Please let me know what you think. Terry

Re: strip build

Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:34 am
by jem
If it's free and you have the equipment, definitely do that! With a wood strip, a 30-60 angled scarf cut is all your really need to make it look nice. You could go more with a 8:1 ratio but that's overkill for suck a narrow width strip, in my opinion. Be sure to stagger where the scarf joints are.

Re: strip build

Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 9:03 am
by toolman
jem wrote:If it's free and you have the equipment, definitely do that! With a wood strip, a 30-60 angled scarf cut is all your really need to make it look nice. You could go more with a 8:1 ratio but that's overkill for suck a narrow width strip, in my opinion. Be sure to stagger where the scarf joints are.
Thanks for takeing the time to get back to me I'm going to start stalking up on supplies.

Re: strip build

Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 10:44 am
by Frogman
Hey Toolman, I am new to this site and to "stich and glue" boat building but have built three different "strip" boats and just thought I would put in my two cents. I agree with everything Matt said. Two more comments, you also do not need to bead and cove the joints, I built my boats completely without them, just run a plane down the inside of the strip at what ever angle is close to the curve. Sounds like a lot more of a pain in the butt than it is. Since you will be using a lot of short pieces of wood, be careful about using wood that is a lot different in hardness. This is OK, but be aware that it will make sanding and fairing trickier.

Re: strip build

Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 10:54 am
by jem
Frogman wrote:Hey Toolman, I am new to this site and to "stich and glue" boat building but have built three different "strip" boats and just thought I would put in my two cents. I agree with everything Matt said. Two more comments, you also do not need to bead and cove the joints, I built my boats completely without them, just run a plane down the inside of the strip at what ever angle is close to the curve. Sounds like a lot more of a pain in the butt than it is. Since you will be using a lot of short pieces of wood, be careful about using wood that is a lot different in hardness. This is OK, but be aware that it will make sanding and fairing trickier.
Great info. I think the wood will be of good quality since it's from Grey Owl Paddles. They are one of the bigger names in the paddle making industry.

Re: strip build

Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2011 2:49 pm
by toolman
Frogman wrote:Hey Toolman, I am new to this site and to "stich and glue" boat building but have built three different "strip" boats and just thought I would put in my two cents. I agree with everything Matt said. Two more comments, you also do not need to bead and cove the joints, I built my boats completely without them, just run a plane down the inside of the strip at what ever angle is close to the curve. Sounds like a lot more of a pain in the butt than it is. Since you will be using a lot of short pieces of wood, be careful about using wood that is a lot different in hardness. This is OK, but be aware that it will make sanding and fairing trickier.
Thanks for the added info it sure will be handy