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Tables vs Saw Horses
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 3:00 pm
I read the saw horse thread and have fiddled with the design to see how I can make them into a 3 yak storage holder, and, or a long table for entertainment.
My wife asked why don't I just pickup a couple of 8' plastic tables with folding legs. We would then have the tables for parties and they would store compactly aginst the garage wall. (Guess she wants the yaks stored own at my canoe club).
Anyway two 8 footers would only be 6" shorter than the yak Matt is deisgning for me. Cost is probably only $30 more than constructing horses.
I've seen Matt's strong back post. Do I need a strongback that's as long as the yak? Or just for the cockpit which looking at pics seems to serve as his interior form .
But my real question is do I need to make these two tables joined together fit perfectly level?
Anyone build ontop of two joined tables? Any problems doing so?
Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:23 pm
Chris Ostlind published a Mirage Drive retrofit article in Duckwoks. Might be some tips in there.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/art ... e/free.cfm
Edit Posted in wrong forum. How do you delete?
Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:31 am
Aloha Dan, the table idea is good for the initial layout phase and gluing butt joints. It might be me, but once I start working on the assembled hull, I like the boat to be cradled. It doesn't move around. I took that necessity one step further and make the cradle arms adjustable so I can work on my boats at different angles and upside down. I hope my thread in the tips section is helpful contact me if I can assist. MK
Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 11:09 am
The tables may be a few inches too high for working comfort, and are likely going to be more wobbly than you want them to be. But, maybe not - just my first view of most of those tables I've seen.
I built my first two boats on the floor. Back ache city! I tried assembling saw horses of 2X4s with those metal clamps at the corners. Damned things fell apart all on their own initiative, and always at the worst time.
I bought two pairs of good sawhorses from Home Depot, or Loews, or some such store. I took a piece of 4'X8' plywood, 3/8" (1/2" would be very good too) and ripped it into two, 2'X8' pieces. Now, I can have two, handy configurations.
When working on the initial 4'X8' pieces of plywood, my table matches at 4'X8'. After the planks are ready to glue together end to end, I arrange it into a 2'X16' configuration. Very handy.
Under my 3/8" ply, I ran some stiffeners up the center length ways. These stretch about 6' long, up the center of each 2'X8' piece. I used some 2" banister pieces because (1) I had them on hand, and (2) they have a flat surface on one side. I screwed them to the underside of the ply.
In use, I secure the edges of these to 2'X8' sections with small slats that are bolted to them. My slats are 1"X1/2"x10" garden stakes. Again, they were handy. I use machine screws with countersunk heads, and wing nuts with washers on the bottom side.
I also have a Black & Decker Workmate bench.
Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:40 pm
I've used saw horses and tables... I actually like the tables because they fold up and store away. It just so happens that my tables have adjustable length legs so you can set the height to whatever length you want. Only problem i've had was the boat sliding around when i'm pushing too hard on my sander.
Just cover it with wax paper before using epoxy and it'll always stay nice and clean.