I've gotten to where I template most parts out of MDF using a brad gun to tack 1/2x3/4 clear pine stock I use for a batten.
Cut each line with a top bearing router bit. If there is an error, the templates gives me a chance to see it as you can rough fit with 1/2" MDF.
Take Scotch double sided tape and tape your boat wood to the pattern. Take a small trim router, some people call them palm routers, and place a bottom bearing trim bit in it and zip the part out lickety split. Once whatever you want to template is done, it's real quick and deadly accurate. As accurate as your template is and repeatable.
I cut my templates with a full size router with a 1/2" shank top bearing trim bit. Rough cut the part within half the width of the router bit with a jigsaw, band saw, etc. With a 1/2" shank you won't get bit chatter.
When you cut the actual part you don't need to do this because the plywood is thin and not as dense. 1/4" shank bit and no pre cutting necessary.
Other than that I use a bandsaw.
My method adds cost without question. They don't give MDF away and double sided tape is 12-15 dollars for a 30 yard roll. Usually takes a roll and half for these boats just doing the critical parts like side panels, stations, etc. But I've got a template somebody else can use or I can revisit myself at some point.
I put a coupla coats of poly on the template faces and crate them up for storage.
The poor man's shop bot.
A trim router is one of the best tools I've ever added to my boat building arsenal. Bosch makes one of the best and it's around a 100 bucks. Compact, light, and handy.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVSK-1- ... B000ANQHTA
I think everybody develops something that works for them and that they are pleased with the results when it comes to laying out and cutting. My particular way just adds cost and time, but could actually save money on a project mistake wise if you are usingexpensive wood to build out of. I'm an Okoume and Sapele builder for the most part.
Cut, stain, epoxy, and assemble.