Robin's Laker

Builder show and discuss their progress.
hairymick
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Post by hairymick »

Roger that! Thanks Jack.

Took the decks off last night and filleted the inside. also applied saturation coats.

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Early this morning, a quick scrape down to get rid of any little bubbles etc in the glass and applied first wet out coat.

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A good thing about this 50" cloth is that there are lots of off-cuts. I use these on the underside of the decks. By correct placement the offcuts also provise a double layer of matt in high load areas ie where the boat will be resting on the roof racks

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With the little left over epoxy, started on the end pours for the foot - braces.

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My Duckworks cloth came tightly folded and wrapped. It was the only way they could ship it. With a little fore - thought , no problem. Laid flat over the Southwind for when I am ready to cover the decks. Hopefully, this will get rid of the creases. I think it will.



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Regards,
Mick

JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)
jem
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Post by jem »

Looking good Mick!

Those creases will come out after relaxing for a bit. "Petting" them once in a while helps.
-Matt. Designer.
hairymick
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Post by hairymick »

Thanks mate,

Got a bit more done this afternoon.

another fill coat of resin and installed all backing plates.

Bow carry handle backing plate.

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Fore-deck bungee cord backing plates and deck tube. :D



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More deck tube

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rear hatch way and bungee backing plates

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Rear carry bandle backing plate. I have departed from my normal practice of using a solid piece of timber for backing plates. I think the ply will be strong enough and should be a bit lighter

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Regards,
Mick

JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)
dangermouse01
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Post by dangermouse01 »

Hey Mick;
On your deck tube, if you are not already thinking of it, you might want to think about a lip or end plate on the back end to keep things from just sliding on thru and just falling out the other end. Could just criss cross some small diameter bungie cord or nylon strap across the back. Or even some small diameter dowel rod.

Looks great.

DM
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Post by Kayak Jack »

I've seen tupperware boaters glue a chunk of PVC pipe up under the decks. Probably easier to glue PVC to plastic than to epoxy?

Being lazy, I might try a small, mesh bag fixed up there. (I've been thinking about getting ready to begin analyzing about wanting to start planning to consider commencing procrastination as a new hobby, but it may be too soon.)
Kayak Jack
Doing what you like is FREEDOM
Liking what you do is HAPPINESS
I spent most of my money on whiskey and women - and I'm afraid I just wasted the rest.
hairymick
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Post by hairymick »

G'day DM.

Thanks for the tip mate. I had considered a lip, but instead, I opted to make the tube a pretty neat fit for Robin's camer in its case. The friction should hold it in place OK. :D

It is only to hold it up out of the way and to save over-loading her pockets.

Jack, I think they are a pretty good idea (if I do say so myself) though not strictly mine. I borrowed it from somewhere else and just modified it a bit.


Got the decks on this morning. :D

I do them a little differently to the way Matt advises in that I build them in two halves - front and back. I think this is easier for me, working on my own. Once each section is held firmly in place, I do a butt block jointwhere they meet in the middle. Still a nice tidy joint and less chance of breakage when handling two long panels held together by only two thin strips of ply.

I tried masking tape to hold the decks in place this time - instead of lots of wire ties. seems to work real good. :D



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and is a heck of a lot quicker.

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Deck, ply butt block.

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Deck tube

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Back to work for the next few days. this will give the shear clamp glue time to cure up hard then to start trying to make her pretty. :lol:
Regards,
Mick

JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)
hairymick
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Post by hairymick »

Deck to hull seams are filled.

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Deck saturation coats are on

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Tomorrow we glass the decks ! First boat of 2008 :D

Happy new year all. :D :D
Regards,
Mick

JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)
Kayak Jack
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Post by Kayak Jack »

I think that Robin is going to have a lot of good times in this boat. She's lucky to have a partner that thinks enough of her to build a boat for her.
Kayak Jack
Doing what you like is FREEDOM
Liking what you do is HAPPINESS
I spent most of my money on whiskey and women - and I'm afraid I just wasted the rest.
hairymick
Design Reviewer
Posts: 1965
Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:54 am
Type of boat I like: <-- Please read instructions to the left and delete this text. Then, tell us what type boat you like! :-)
Location: Queensland, Australia
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Post by hairymick »

This 50" cloth from Duckworks is beautiful stuff! It completely disappears when wet out.

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1st wet out coat. :D

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I run 2" masking tape about 2" below the deck seams, wet to the tape and as soon as wet out is complete, run a razor knife through the cloth just above the tape. Pull the tape and excess cloth off in one go :D - presto, a nice neat overlap. - easy. :D

2nd. or 1st. fill coat is on. You can just see the overlap and cloth edge here. Also fitted the first layer of cockpit coaming at this stage. :D

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I really like the patterns on this ply.

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Regards,
Mick

JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)
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Post by surfman »

Looking really good Mick. I neglected to put some backing blocks under the top of my stalker and I need to add a handle so I will need to do it as an afterthought. Not a big deal but would have been a lot easier if I had done it before I put the thing together.
Tight Lines, Steve
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