JEM Watercraft

I have never seen the plans or instructions, but don't the frames get glued, fileted and fiberglass taped to the sides so that the epoxy and tape would hold the sides and frames together?

Tor wrote:thanks Matt,

I was thinking if I put a piece of tensioned cable running from one side to the other along the frames with big washers that I "hide" in the gunwales this would prevent the sides springing back out. It's not clear from the picture but it's about 1.5" out at the top s there is a fair amount of tension.

any comments?

Tor

in that design, the frames are filleted and fiberglassed to the hull permanently.

I know but...

The ply panels cured further apart than planned and I had to pull them in I'm concerned that the constant pull will spring the glued/filleted joint open. Am I being too conservative? I suppose that if it does spring open I can wire it up afterwards.

Trying to make up for poor initial processes.

Thanks,

Tor

oh I see what you mean. I think you'll find that that once it's filleted (glued) and fiberglassed, it's not going anywhere any time soon.

It will also "train" the wood to hel position.

You could also try and re-make the frames to fit the hull. Fit a cardboard temp frame in there first. Once you're please with the fit, use it as a pattern.

Once thing to be mindful if the panels spread open: It will create more rocker if you don't pull it back into position. More rocker will make it easier to turn on the water but harder to keep on a straight path.

That being said, I'd go with installing the original frames. It you're concerned, create a solid lumber thwart at the tops of the panels and drive a wood screw from the hull exterior into the thwart.

Tor;
The best chance you have of the sides pulling away from the frames after epoxied together, would be by removing the straps BEFORE you get good epoxy cure. Apply the epoxy, strap it in place and leave it alone for 24 hours (longer if it is kinda cool). Just leave it, no messing with it. Then after 24 hours you can remove the strap. OR you could apply the fillet along the frame-to-hull edges before you take the strap off.

I would also put a piece of the clear packing tape on the outside of the hull where the frames go, then fold it over along the top frame of the edge, that way your strap wont get epoxied on from any squeeze out. Or you could put the tape on your strap on the side that is against the boat. Do a dry run before doing it for real.

Boat looks good.
Those end pieces are gonna look really nice.

DM

Ok I'm leaving the straps clamps in place until the weekend, I'm going to put a decent fillet around both sides of the frames (currently just glued, not much of a fillet) I shall do this tomorrow.

This will give 4 days of cure, I'll then install the inner-whale and clamp it all up again whilst putting the final coats of epoxy on the gunwhales and fitting the decks.

Might have to not put the varnish on 'till after the first paddle, but I've bought it so it will happen (I'm not letting the sun destroy the boat).

Tor

It would take several weeks of all-day, direct sun exposure to get significant break down of the epoxy.

So you have plenty of time. If you have to keep it outdoors, just throw a tarp over the top of it.

Tor wrote:

Might have to not put the varnish on 'till after the first paddle, but I've bought it so it will happen (I'm not letting the sun destroy the boat).

Tor

I like to hold off on the varnish for 2 to 3 weeks to make sure the epoxy has set up and in that time , I paddle the boat.
It will get scratched and dirty but with a washing it cleans up. You would have to lightly sand it before the varnish so by using it you get to enjoy it , then sand it and varnish it.

All the scratches are gone (disappear ) with the 1st coat of varnish.

Chuck.

I gather up all of Chuck's scratches and install them onto my boats. Makes it look like I'm a well seasoned traveler that way.

I wonder what happens if you put varnish on Chuck?