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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2008 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:24 pm
Posts: 26
Today I go to see what the stain looked like with the wood and then applied it to some of the panels, I really like how it did not overwhelm the true color of the wood. The piece on top is the non-stained wood.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 8:56 pm 
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I knew these old college text books were good for something :D. One question, has anyone used latex or nitrile gloves when using epoxy? I know vinyl are the best, but they are too baggy on me to be efficient. Thanks
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 10:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2004 8:14 pm
Posts: 4855
Location: Greensboro, NC
epoxy will stick to the latex. Nitrile should be slightly better.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 10:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2008 12:01 am
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Location: Portland, Oregon
Nitrile are the best and are much more chemical resistant. Some common solvents will go right through latex.

And about the Japanese pull saws, because they cut so well it hurts much less when you slip. That is a plus. The negative is that it cuts deeper. This I learned from experience. You can get good deals on them at Amazon.com.

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Craig
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If I had more clamps, I could build more boats.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 11:56 am 
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Finally I had some time to get some progress made on my Laker. I have almost all the stitches in and hopefully (this is the key word) by tonight I will have things nice and straight to start filleting. I would have had pictures, but by the time I quit working last night it was too dark to take pictures.

I've seen on a few builds people reinforcing where the handles were going to be placed with a piece of 1x2, is this correct? I would also like to do something like this where ever the handles and foot braces are going to be placed. If there are any other ideas I would be very open to hear about different alternatives.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 11:02 pm 
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yay it's 3-D and you can see my make shift work area :oops:
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 Post subject: Re: Painted's Laker
PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 6:02 pm 
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Posts: 26
Slow progress, but she is coming along. I have sealed all the seams, saturation coat is put on, and sanded ready for the cloth to go on. All I am waiting on is the decals to finish drying, i'll show pics of these when they are ready.

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 Post subject: Re: Painted's Laker
PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 9:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2008 9:24 pm
Posts: 26
Well I have successfully epoxied on my onlays. It was very handy to take some small scraps of wood and cover with packing tape and use this to hold the onlays on when they are drying (with the aid of some clamps too). The same concept as covering the frames with packing tape when filleting the seams.

Now all your wives and daughters have something to be jealous of, a kayak with flowers.

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 Post subject: Re: Painted's Laker
PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 7:25 pm 
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The boat is now fiberglassed inside and out. The manual was right it was not fun glassing the inside. I would get one side wetted out and then wetting out the other side it would pull apart from the first side. This was a great way to spend a Friday night. In the end it was easier to just deal with the adjustments at the end. Now I have to worry about is getting the few bugs out that decided to commit suicide in the epoxy.


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 Post subject: Re: Painted's Laker
PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2004 8:14 pm
Posts: 4855
Location: Greensboro, NC
paintedmidnight wrote:
The boat is now fiberglassed inside and out. The manual was right it was not fun glassing the inside.


:lol: yep, it's about as fun as a root canal but luckily, you only have to do it once per boat! :P

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