The "Onkalaker" Laker 13

[Kayak Jack]

The carbide blade tipped scrapers are sometimes called "cabinet scrapers". Maybe a cabinet shop?

Maybe try these folks? http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/index.php

or http://www.rockler.com/index.cfm?cookietest=1

[hairymick]

G'day Jack,

These are waht are called Cabinet Scrapers in Australia

http://www.carbatec.com.au/scraping/marples-scrapers.

And are not really hard enough to scrape epoxy and last long.

The one like I posted is used here to scrape off old hard paint and will last a lot longer.

[OnkaBob]

Slowed up the last couple of days but since the last entry have:
- did some reasonably serious sanding of lumps and put another coat on the outside. Will leave this a while now and move on with deck and interior glassing. Will do a wet sand later and reassess.
- put saturation coat on inside.
- tacked deck together.



Looks roomy inside but still sleek .

Will be slow going from here on. Will be back at w**k on Monday so have set a target of having the deck filleted before that.

[Bruce36549]

Coming along nicely, Bob. Looks good with the deck on.

Bruce

[Graham]

Well done Bob cracking build,
Its now time to take stock, I find w**k allows me time to relax and recuperate before the build at the weekend. Careful not to rush the process, mistakes by what you have commented on can be frustrating. Trying to speed up the build process can some times cause more problems, with your eye for quality you may find yourself compromised. Keep up the posts and the photos
we all want the best you can build.

[OnkaBob]

Hard lesson No 2:

With the Laker's deck you need to tack it together strongly before moving it. The structure does not have the same inherent rigidity/strength as the hull.

The tacks I did last night were minimal as I was hoping to take out the ties/spacers and do the filleting in one long run. Also the filler was still slightly soft, something I did not check for. So when I started to dismantle the spacers this morning things moved and it had to be set up and done again. Not a big drama but it cost an hour or so. As much as possible has been filled between spacers/ties now so it should be OK to flip when it hardens.

Carried the entire boat with deck on out into the sun to harden up and will leave at least until tomorrow. Somehow it looks bigger outside and I'm thinking that someone my size could pack enough gear in her to go for an overnighter. I really wanted an all rounder and it's looking more and more like this is it .

[OnkaBob]

Things have really slowed down now that holidays are over but managed to get a little done each night. Did some sanding the other day when it was 40 deg C (104F) and would have gone on a lot longer if time allowed. We don't get the high humidity here so 40 is quite acceptable for a reptile like me.

Cut the glass for under the deck last night.



Also decided to do inside the hull in 3 pieces - 1 each side and 1 on the bottom. Got one side piece out of the trimmed off section from the deck and glassed that in. Thought it would be easy compared to the hull debacle but still had a little trouble. Final result looked good though and if the rest of the glassing goes like that it will be OK. Have seen references to tight weave cloth and wonder if that could be part of the problem. Will post some pics later for opinions.

Have also decided I want flush fitting hatches with no visible hardware but can't find any how-to info anywhere. Have seen references to a "concealed bungy" method which sounds simple and easy but can't imagine how you would open it without some kind of handle on the outside. Does anyone have any links or advice?

[OnkaBob]

Wet out the under side of the deck and the other side in the hull tonight. Getting better with working the resin but still have trouble in the corners as the glass tends to pull away easily. Also getting more of a feel for what works as far as holding the glass in place.








Here is a piece of the cloth I am using - can anyone tell me if it is open weave or otherwise?

[jem]

It's hard to judge just by picture but it looks like a little bit denser/tighter weave pattern than standard e-glass weave.

[craiggamesh]

Have also decided I want flush fitting hatches with no visible hardware but can't find any how-to info anywhere. Have seen references to a "concealed bungy" method which sounds simple and easy but can't imagine how you would open it without some kind of handle on the outside. Does anyone have any links or advice?

Do a Google search for <edited> website where they show how to build flush hatches with no external hardware.

Matt here : I usually try not to be a control freak, but I'm going to block that link and/or reference. Not so much a competitor but a really bad interaction with that source a while ago. I'll leave it at that. Feel free to PM or email each other about the site. No harm done. I just choose not to have that link/reference. Thanks in advance for understanding.