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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 3:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2006 8:54 am
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Location: Queensland, Australia
G'day Scott,

Matt has re-drawn the Wadefish. he has added a little more volume in the bow and shifted the seating back and down a little, and I think, mate the stern a little finer.

These are all improvements. My boat didn't weather cock and for paddling purposes, didn't need a rudder. For gliding up on surface or shallow water fish, the rudder is a definate advantage.

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Mick

JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 23, 2006 8:34 pm
Posts: 386
Location: Brookline, MA
Thanks Mick!
I'm asking Matt to design a Wadefish Jr. (12 feet) for launching thru the surf and fishing close nearby. Always thrilled to have your knowledable input!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 10:52 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 23, 2006 8:34 pm
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Location: Brookline, MA
Mick,
Matt has designed a smaller/modified version of the Wadefish for me which he's calling the Bluefin. It's a little over 12' long. I'll be starting the build soon.

While I love my tandem, the one thing that I didn't do well on the build is keep the weight down. It's quite a heavy beast! I'm certain that it's all my fault as it was my first build. I'm pretty sure I have way to much epoxy in it, end pours that are too big, etc.

What do you do to try and keep it as light as possible?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:06 pm 
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Location: Queensland, Australia
G'day Scott,

Thanks for asking me mate.

I do everythng that I can to save weight. Anything that I think won't compromise hull integrety or strength I will try. An ounce her ad an ounce there all very quickly add up.

On all of my boats, the weight only starts to come into play when the fibreglass cloth and resin starts going on. I think this is a BIG part of a boats weight.

To this end, I use this cloth from Duckworks

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies/cl ... /index.htm

It is the lightest I have ever used and completely fills with one wet out coat and two or three light fill coats. If using quality,4mm marine ply, I would use this on the outside and cut the off-cuts into strips to "tape" the seams on the inside.

I do end fillets instead of end pours now :D

The lovely but heavy bought hatches are also a significant weight issue. as are anything you add on after the boat is made.

I overbuilt my wadefish too. At 24kgs, (bare hull) I think it was heavier than it needed to be but it was only my second build.

Any SOT is going to be heavier than a comparable sized sit in kayak or canoe. You are basically building two boats - one inside the other as well as adding the necessary supports for the inner hull.

I would consider end bulkheads, say in about the position of your two temp frames closest to the stems and leave all the other bukheads out.

Have a look at CCTX's sabalo build. He is a way better builder than me. Have a look at the way he reduced the wood in everything he could. ie cockpit frame and deck supports. I would do this on my builds only I am too lazy :oops:

Will post more as I think of it. Mate, I have seen a concept drawing of your bluefin and it has impressed the heck out of me. Very, very nice.

Please post your build adventures. I am really looking forward to your build on this one.

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Regards,
Mick

JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:58 pm 
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Posts: 4855
Location: Greensboro, NC
Image

Image

couple concept pictures (in no particular scale)

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 4:05 pm 
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Location: Brookline, MA
Thanks Mick! A couple of more questions please:

1. So you're suggesting to just tape the seams on the inside of the hull instead of a full fiberglassing?

2. I noticed that you do a saturation coat before applying the fiberglass. What's the purpose of that?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 4:14 pm 
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scottrunnr wrote:

1. So you're suggesting to just tape the seams on the inside of the hull instead of a full fiberglassing?


I'd only do that if you're using quality ply. You could always apply the fibeglass and not bother with the weave-fill coats on the hull interior.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 5:13 pm 
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Posts: 1965
Location: Queensland, Australia
Scott,

Like Matt said, I would use quality marine ply, I would completely sheath the outside in firbreglass cloth. and cut strips from the cloth about 4" wide and do the seams on the inside. In the load carrying areas, ie cockpit support frames etc, I would also apply cloth there.

Re saturation coat. I find the cloth wet out coat is easier to do if the ply is at least, sealed with epoxy first.

Matt, thanks for posting the concept drawings mate. I think this will make a fine, small GP and fishing SOT. There is a very definate demand for this type of smaller SOT in this country at least.

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Regards,
Mick

JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 5:22 pm 
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Location: South-central Michigan
hairymick wrote:
To this end, I use this cloth from Duckworks

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies/cl ... /index.htm
Mick, is this a tight weave or a loose weave glass?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 5:35 pm 
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Tight weave Jack, but with care and patience can be worked into conforming.

Wets out absolutely clear - remarkable stuff. I will definately be using it again. - often. :D

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Regards,
Mick

JEMWATERCRAFT Swampgirl; Wadefish;Touring Pirogue;South Wind; P5 ;
Laker X 2, Sasquatch 16.5 T-V 15 Okwata 15:
Cobia 15 (under construction)


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