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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 12:45 pm 
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Location: Greensboro, NC
Gavin hard at work!

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 Post subject: Tack Welding Frames
PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 4:22 pm 
Matt,

I have finished welding all the seams except the ones between the hull and the frames. Should I remove the frames and fiberglass under them in one continuous strip of fiberglass? Or should I weld in the frames as they are and then fillet and fiberglass the whole thing with the frames in place. I know that the temp from will not be left in so I will not weld it in but what about the other two bulkheads. Should I leave the Temp Mid frame in while I fiberglass the outside or can I remove it when I have the welds finished and just leave it out?
Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 4:37 pm 
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Fillet and tape between the frames.

Remove the frames, and then finish it off.

Reinstall any bulkheads. You'll have to sand them a little to fit. Fillet and tape them to the hull.

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 Post subject: Taping inside the Bow
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 12:28 pm 
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Location: Farmington, NM
In the bow/stern areas, I make my fillet plenty big and fat. Doesn't hurt to have a little extra beef is those areas for bumping logs and such. So goop in some extra filleting material and find somethig with a wider radius tip to make the curve. I just did that one the tailboat prototype. I'll get some pictures posted tonight. Use regular weave cloth for easier application...it forms to corners much easier than tight weave.

Feathering the edge means just knocking down (sanding) the woven edge of the fiberglass cloth. Gives a better finish and will knock down the high points and edges that will scrape through your paint/varnish quicker.

Lots of times the woven edges of cloth don't wet out completely. Sand them down so it's a smooth transition from tape to wood, but don't go to crazy trying to get it perfectly smooth. Get it close to smooth, and then run a thin bead of thickened epoxy over that edge, let it cure, sand, and you'll have a real nice and fair surface.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 09, 2005 12:47 pm 
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Well gang, I messed up! :oops:

I went to click "quote" Gavins post and accidently clicked "edit" and typed my response over his original question.

Gavin's orginal question was about the best way to handle filleting and taping the bow and stern areas where it gets tight to work with. He asked if tight weave or regular weave cloth would be better.

He also asked what is meant by "feathering the taped edge".

Sorry about that Gavin. :oops: :oops:

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 Post subject: Gunwales
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 11:59 am 
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Location: Farmington, NM
I decided to cut some gunwales this weekend. I had cut one set to use as a template before I assembled the sides of the boat. But I was not satisfied with them since I cut them in a bit of rush. So I proped up a full sheet of plywood against the side of my boat and traced the shape of the gunwale to the plywood. This is a leson learned. I should have made all my gunwales before assembling the boat. :roll:

I am planning to put the gunwales on and the yoke in place before flipping the boat over and finishing the hull. THis is to give my 1/8" sides some strength while I am sanding the outside of the hull.

I have been thinking about the movable front seat. I saw the one you have for sale on the JEM website and will probably model mine after that one. But I will attache the side rails to the sides of the boat instead of putting and extra thwart in the boat. I have not made a final decision yet.

Does anyone know what the mondulus of elastisity of epioxied wood is? of fiberglassed and epoxied wood? I know what it is for different raw woods, but I am sure that epoxied wood is much stronger, and fiberglassed even stronger. The reason for it is to make my seat frame and rails as small as possible but still make them strong enough.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:27 pm 
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From what I remember, you want to make the sliding range of the seat somewhat longer. This could pose challenges to making sure there's no sag in the rails and that they are braced properly.

One possible solution is to construct a sort of I-beam like if you were making a strong-back. Have the seat frame tuck inside the I. Then you can install supports to the I-beam on not worry about it interfering with seat travel.

Ensure you're perfectly parallel will also be tricky. Construct the rail system first, brace it with some battens, ensure you seat slides freely, then install to your hull.

For best strength and warp resistence, make the center part of the I-beam out of 2 laminated layers of 1/2" ash with the grain running paraller length wise to the boat centerline. Cap the center beam off with 3/4" thick, 2" wide strips. That should be brutally strong. Glass wouldn't help this configuration much. Thinking about it, a "C-beam" set up would probably be just as good.

I wouldn't even conside the strength added by epoxy. Think of it more as a sealing ageant in this case.

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 Post subject: Update
PostPosted: Wed May 04, 2005 10:44 am 
I have been working on my boat here and there for the past few months.

I have the fiberglass on the inside and out with all the bulkheads and decks tacked in place. I will get some pictures soon.

I had a number of bubbles on the outside of the hull when I put the fiberglass down. Most were small (pen tip to pencil eraser size) but I have been going through and cutting them out and filling the holes with thickened epoxy. A very time consuming process. I have also been fairing the outside of the hull.

When I fiber glassed the outside of the hull with my 6oz 6" glass tape I placed 3 pieces of tape edge to edge running the length of the hull. So essentially the sides of my boat have one continuous sheet of fiberglass. This reduced the amount of fairing that I needed to do by a lot.

I also installed my rub rails and one 1/4" thick piece of the gunwales before I finished the outside of the boat. This was because the 1/8" plywood sides of my boat did not look like they would stand up very well to supporting the boat while I sanded on the outside of the hull.

I also deviated from the plans a little by making my aft deck 4" shorter. When I got the original deck in place it seemed like there was a lot of wasted space under it. I would have liked to move my Aft bulkhead forward 4-6" as well but I had it cut and fitted in place before I realized this. My aft deck is also sloping forward a little (about 3/4" at the front edge). This is avoid pooling water on the back seat/deck while the boat is trimmed slightly aft.

I still need to install the rest of the gunwales, a breast hook, and a yoke/thwart, epoxy 2 coats inside and out, finish fairing and put down some paint.


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 Post subject: Final Epoxy and Painting questions
PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 1:24 pm 
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Location: Farmington, NM
What is the best way to get a nnice smooth hull?

I have added the second to last coat of epoxy to the hull. No matter how carful I am and how much I spread the epoxy around I still get runs. The only way I can see to get a nice smooth hull is to sand the S#%t out of it.

Once I get the sanding and final epoxy out of the way what type or method should I use to paint my boat? Or what type of UV protection do I need if I want to have the wood look?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 1:41 pm 
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A few tips:

To avoid the runs, eat more bran. :lol:

ok ok.... you could do a couple things: Add a couple pinches of woodflour to thicken it up a bit, but that will make laminating fiberglass harder.

I like to wait about 45 minutes after application and go back and look at it. Usually about the same amount of time to straighten up the shop a little, grab a beverage, and come back. The epoxy will be cured enough to where it's firm but you can still scrape it off with a tongue depressor, cabinet scraper, etc. Cabinet scrapers also work well after epoxy has cured. A little more elbow grease required.

You won't get completely away from sanding it but that helps.

For fairing and filling it peaks and valleys, you could use a light coat of dark colored primer in a spray can. Spray it so it just "dots" everything. Run your sander over that. Where there still is dots, that's a low spot.

Carefull with this method if you're going for a natural wood finish because any dots you didn't sand could show through.

For painting, I like using a foam roller and apply in several thin coats. Check what your paint can says. Sometimes sanding between coats helps give a nicer finish.

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