Jcubero's Merrimac

[Oldsparkey]

After the last coat of epoxy dries to the touch, about 24 hours, you can use the canoe. Then let the epoxy cure for about 30 days, sand (lightly) and varnish the canoe.

When I add the graphite mix to the bottom of my boats, I apply one mix and you can still see the wood, the 2nd coat gets rid of most of the wood you can see and the 3rd coat it is solid black. I would say it is about a 20% mix.

The way I mix it is to put the resin in a container, add the graphite and mix it together very gently. ( If you put the graphite in the container 1st then it want's to stick to the edges or corners so I put in on top of the resin. ) The graphite will fly all over you if you don't.
When it is mixed together (No Lumps) then I add the hardener and mix all of it really good, then apply it to the boat's bottom.

The next to the last step for me when making a boat is putting the graphite on , the last step is the varnish.

Chuck.

[Kayak Jack]

... and no need to varnish below the waterline. Sun shouldn't be shining on the bottom of your boat anyway (except Chuckie's, which seems to spend an inordinate amount of time upside down?) and the varnish is softer than epoxy anyway.

[jcubero]

No pics tonight, but plenty of work. Ripped the mahogany for inwales and outwales. I'm doing slotted inwales, so I also cut a bunch of spacers out of maple. We did an epoxy saturation coat on the whole inside, then I started putting all the spacers on for the inwale. There's about a bazillion of them little things. Now that I've done one whole side, are there any shortcuts? I figured I could either put them all on the inwale, or put them on the boat. I opted for the boat - easier clamping. Luckily I also have half a bazillion clamps.
Another possible way is this: clamp and glue two strips (mahogany and maple) together for inwale, then use router or dado blade to remove wood at regular intervals. I *almost* did it that way.

We then flipped the canoe over and did a graphite coat on the bottom. The bad news is the graphite covers up a lot of pretty wood.
Still, #1 consideration is a long-lasting hole-free canoe, so the strength of the graphite is more important.
Tomorrow we glass the inside, put on the rest of the inwale spacers, then flip over again and put a second graphite coat on. Oh yeah, we also need to do a saturation coat on the inwale and outwale boards.

The only problem is I haven't had any time to work on paddles Maybe this weekend.

[jcubero]

Glassed the inside today. On a scale of 1 to 10, glassing the outside was about a 2. Glassing the inside took five times as long, and was about a 37. You all suck. Not one of you told me what I was in for.

(Following rant is sanitized for your safety. Not responsible for retinal damage caused by reading).

Mother bleep! What the bleeping corner of bleeping hell did bleep bleep bleeeeep blepitty goat-bleeping sonofa-bleep bleep fiber-bleep bleep up their collective bleepbleepbleep bleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep!

OK, I feel better now. It all turned out OK in the end, but it was definitely tricky. Matt: One suggestion for the plans. The Merrimac has a pretty acute angle in the center, between the top and middle pieces. It caused no end of grief glassing the inside because the radius is very tight and the glass didn't want to conform and stick. You might want to suggest a wider fillet at that spot, or some sort of minimum radius for easier glassing.

I started by finishing making the gunnels, then made some breasthooks. We decided we liked that plywood so much that we wanted it for the breasthooks as well. So, I cut two breasthooks out of a pine board, then epoxied two pieces of plywood on top - but slightly larger to be trimmed later - then weighed them down. I then epoxy saturated all the gunnels and set it all to dry. I have found that mahogany is a difficult wood to work with - it's pretty soft, warps and twists when ripped. However, it's all worth it when you coat it with epoxy. Gorgeous!



We then started glassing the bottom, worked our way up the sides and over to the ends. Had to do some serious slicing at the ends! After several frustrating hours, much epoxy and many rollers, we stepped back satisfied with our work.

Finally, I finished putting in all the spacers for the inwales. I'm glad I have a lot of clamps! Here's the money shot:

Kym said I'm "A man of many vises."

From here, it's easy! tomorrow two coats of epoxy and then mount the breasthooks and gunwales. I'll also make two thwarts - I'm going to make them out of cherry. I have a big 2x2 I'll rip in half, so it's free.

[hairymick]

G'day Javier

Glassed the inside today. On a scale of 1 to 10, glassing the outside was about a 2. Glassing the inside took five times as long, and was about a 37. You all suck. Not one of you told me what I was in for.

Welcome to our world mate.

I find it helps to tip the boat up on its side and lay one side of the glass overlapping the centre line. I hold it in place with masking tape while I wet out the deep concave areas. when that is done, I hold the wetted out glass in place on the gunwhales with clothes pegs, tip the boat up on the other said and repeat the process.

A bit late now, I know but your boat and work are things of beauty. You should be very proud.

[Kayak Jack]

Sorry 'bout that, Javier. One of us should have inoculated you on that issue. (But, Matt told us not to.)

Mick's trick of doing one side of the inside at a time helps. I split the task into front and rear. Use any technique you want - it's still a SPAM of a job.

Now, my friend, you want Kym to see you not as a man of many vises, BUT - as a man of many vices. And, she can join you. More fun that way.

[Oldsparkey]

Sorry 'bout that, Javier. One of us should have inoculated you on that issue. (But, Matt told us not to.)

Jack.

I don't know about you but when I asked Matt if I should say anything about that he told me there would be $20.00 in the mail for me if I forgot to say anything about it.

Still looking for that $20..00 in the mail. Thinking about it he never said when he would mail it, if ever.

Seriously.............& not picking on Matt , even though it is fun.
Yes, Sir, doing the inside is a lot of fun. I start at the front 1/3rd then work towards the rear and save the ends for last. Less cussing that way .

Like Mick ... I use the clothes pins to hold the glass till it is wet in.

Chuck.
Pisssssssst Jack , over here.... I get this funny feeling that Javier does not like his canoe , should I offer him that $20.00 Matt is going to send me for it or is that to much?????

[jem]

Alright now.....behave!

I do believe that pade 27 tells you to work in sections!

Actually, that's good feedback. I stress this point on the newer plans. I'll update the Merrimac instructions.


No $20 Chuck, but a topic secret set of plans for SOMETHING is going out in the mail today.

[Kayak Jack]

Chuck,

I'm pretty sure that Javier & Kym would be glad to get rid of the tub for about $10. Try a low-ball offer & see what happens.

$20?? Matt offered you only $20? He has already sent me $35.

[Oldsparkey]

No $20 Chuck, but a topic secret set of plans for SOMETHING is going out in the mail today.

The operating room and table are ready, the lights are angled just right , the ventilation system (Fan) is in place. The Ole Doc is standing by and the saws are sharp the drill is charged and there are even a couple of new pencils for drawing outlines. You know ... Cut on the solid line.

Plus I still have some epoxy left from the last victims operation. I will order in more epoxy and glass when I start cutting , stiching and sanding.

All other operations have been cancalled or put on hold so we can bring the new victim in. AWwwww ....... The Freedom to be cretative and try something new by following those secret plans

Chuck. ( This will be some fun) Design Reviewer/ prototype builder #00 &1/2 signing off here , headquarters.