Jcubero's Merrimac

[jcubero]

OK, another day of stitching and the frame is done! I put the top pieces together and pre-drilled the holes for both at the same time. Yep, it's a lot easier that way.


I checked the diagonals between the frames using an old trick. Take two sticks shorter than the diagonal and lay them together along the diagonal, one to each corner so they overlap in the middle. You then hold the sticks in the middle and bring them out to measure. If you measure this combined length, you have a very accurate inside measure, which is very difficult to get correct with a tape or ruler. For this application it was even easier - I didn't need an absolute measure, I was just checking that both diagonals were equal. SO place the sticks on one diagonal, then flip to the other. Amazingly, all but one diagonal was within 1/16th".

I then added battens between the frames. Self-tapping screws made that much easier - no pre-drilling required.



In this one, Kym pointed out that I'm wearing a t-shirt that says "Caution: Man with Power Tools" but I'm using a hand tool - on the edge of my table saw! Go figure. Hey, the t-shirt was free when I got my drill press at Woodcraft. I much prefer hand tools for small jobs. With that Japanese saw I have a 1x2 cut before I could set the fence on my table saw, much less clear all the junk that somehow always accumulates on top


OK, now the questions begin. The next step (pg 14) is "measure and cut battens equal the width of the frame tops." The picture seems to show these battens right above the frames. However, there's *no way* in our canoe that I can put a batten on top of the frames - they go almost to the top edge of the canoe. So, did I screw up, or am I misinterpreting the drawing? Can I put the battens next to each frame?
I'm also guessing that the ends of the battens shouldn't be parallel, but angled like the canoe side. This isn't mentioned in the instructions however.

I also did a bit of work on the seams. There were a couple spots where I had to take the hand plane and open up the gap a bit - most notably in bow and stern.

So this means tomorrow I can flip the hull onto a level surface, check for any twist, and start filleting?

I've got a ton of questions on filleting - even after reading the forum.
1) Does it matter if you fillet from the outside or from the inside? Is one easier than the other to start?
2) I have Kym helping me, so if one of us is on each side, can we avoid masking and realistically do in&out side at once?
3) Should I apply epoxy to all the edges with a brush first, and let cure overnight? Will this make my fillets better?

This one is for old sparkey - do you do the epoxy fill coat before or after the fillets? (I'm guessing after, and just the day before glassing).

[Kayak Jack]

Javvier,

glad to see your Japanese hand saw. I bought mine in Misawa Japan about 42 years ago.

Take a pair of pliers and break off the two outer corners about a 1/2" back until teeth are exposed for both the crosscut and rip sides. This allows you to start a cut even in the middle of a board.

[jcubero]

I can see how that would work....good trick! I've been to Japan, but got my saw here. I was staring enviously at some of the kitchen knives they have over there - the ones done with "water steel" like the samurai blades. Over $140 for one knife, but they are razor sharp and stay sharp a very long time without touching up. Sadly, I didn't have the spare cash to spend.

[jem]

OK, now the questions begin. The next step (pg 14) is "measure and cut battens equal the width of the frame tops." The picture seems to show these battens right above the frames. However, there's *no way* in our canoe that I can put a batten on top of the frames - they go almost to the top edge of the canoe. So, did I screw up, or am I misinterpreting the drawing? Can I put the battens next to each frame?
I'm also guessing that the ends of the battens shouldn't be parallel, but angled like the canoe side. This isn't mentioned in the instructions however.

I'll have to improve the instructions to make that more clear. Yes place the battens next to the frames and matching the angle of the top panels.

So this means tomorrow I can flip the hull onto a level surface, check for any twist, and start filleting?

yep

1) Does it matter if you fillet from the outside or from the inside? Is one easier than the other to start?
2) I have Kym helping me, so if one of us is on each side, can we avoid masking and realistically do in&out side at once?
3) Should I apply epoxy to all the edges with a brush first, and let cure overnight? Will this make my fillets better?

I find it easier to tack wel from the outside first. If you're carfeul, you can tack weld without having to mask the inside. Apply just enough between the stitches to bridge the gap between the panels. Do this everywhere and let cure. Cut loose the stitches, then finish tack welding.

You can pre-seal the edges with resin but it's not necessary because the tack welding is not meant to completely fill in the gap.

After complete tack welding, you'll have a small "trench" when looking from the inside of the boat. Fill that in when filleting and then try a small section of the wet-on-wet technique.

[jcubero]

After complete tack welding, you'll have a small "trench" when looking from the inside of the boat. Fill that in when filleting and then try a small section of the wet-on-wet technique.

Got it. Now, I'm glassing the whole boat, so I couldn't do wet-on-wet, right? That's just for tape?

Even when glassing, would you recommend running tape on bow and stern? How about down the keel? Would you put that on first, or after the glass?

You have no idea (actually, you probably do) how tempting it is to go down there right now at midnight and start filleting! The only thing that stops me is the knowledge that I *think* I can do this at midnight, but I'd get up tomorrow and wonder who let the drunken monkeys loose on my canoe (disclaimer: I'm not referring to Kajak Jack OR Sparkey, however much the description might fit ). I'm impatient by nature and sometimes have to force myself to wait and read some directions, make sure what I'm doing, BEFORE I jump in and do something permanent.

[hairymick]

I find it easier to tack wel from the outside first. If you're carfeul, you can tack weld without having to mask the inside.

D'oh!!!

Oh well, i will know for the next one.

That is looking a work of art mate. you are a true craftsman.

[Oldsparkey]

I epoxy saturate the wood on each side of the gap by about an inch or so. This gets the epoxy in the wood so when the fillet is applied it has some epoxy to bond to.

I also apply masking tape to the back side of the gap to stop any drips or runs when doing the fillet if the gap has not sealed.

On the inside then I tape the distance I want on each side of the fillet. The wood has been epoxy saturated so the tape has something to stick to, then after the fillet is placed down, when it is about half cured I pull the tape and this gives it a uniform width and crisp edges on the fillet. Don't forget to pull the tape early ( all of the tape) or you will be cussing .....A LOT.

Chuck.

[jem]

Got it. Now, I'm glassing the whole boat, so I couldn't do wet-on-wet, right? That's just for tape?

Even when glassing, would you recommend running tape on bow and stern? How about down the keel? Would you put that on first, or after the glass?

You could do a wet-on-wet of the entire hull if you can apply the fillets fast, but I'd stick to trying it with tape at first.

I'd do the seams with tape first. Feather the edges after cure and apply cloth over that. That will do a pretty good job of hiding the tape and providing a smooth finish.

[jcubero]

Tape ALL the seams first and then apply cloth? Or are we talking just bow and stern (and/or keel). Taping all the seams AND glassing seems like overkill - not to mention a lot of extra work. Even your instructions seem to show one OR the other.

[jem]

I show one or the other. But if you want a heavier duty lay up, then you can do both.

Laying the fiberglass is pretty easy. It may seem like a lot but you'll find it's not bad at all.