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 Post subject: Re: Drive Well Project
PostPosted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 7:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 11, 2009 6:57 am
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Location: Tassie, Australia
Im starting to stitch my second Wadefish together & using the same frame work for the seat as I used for mine so I can then modify the second one before its epoxied together. I have the 3 lower panels loosely in place & sat my cardboard cutout in place. It looks like it will fit with out having to do too much work, just trim the little lip off where the drive will drop through. I then if the measurements work out the side of the drive can be glued to the seat side rails.

Image

Side on shows the drive will still be recessed

Image

Image

I mocked up the seat well on the floor & then sat my card board drive well as if it was up against Frame 2.

Image

Thats looking like the right spot & it can them be fixed to both the back of Frame 2 & the 2 side rails for extra strength.


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 Post subject: Re: Drive Well Project
PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 12:09 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 15, 2004 10:35 pm
Posts: 205
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
craiggamesh wrote:
.... Is the click and go necessary for the new mirage drives, or is the drive unchanged but the attachment method developed by Hobie updated?

No, the new mirage drives will work with both the Click-n-go or the hold down knobs. The old drives will work with the Click-n-go: however, I think that the drum shaft needs to be replaced with the new shaft.

Some other differences between the Click-n-go (CNG) and the cam lock knob (CLK) version of drive well.

Parts cost about $70 USD more for CNG
Drive well construction is a little easier for the CNG
The mounts for the CNG parts is lower than the mount for the CLK
Overall length of the drive well is greater for the CNG
Width of the CNG drive well is less than the CLK version

Also, from looking at Pete's pictures of his Wadefish. If he were to use the CLK version of drive well, the side frames would have to be trimmed to accomodate the cam lock knobs. This isn't an issue, just noting the width differences.

jem wrote:
....Where to start?

I think that Pete is about ready to start on his drive well. ... Pete, which version would you like to try first? We can do both. Just need a place to start. I am hoping have my drawings updated on the CNG version in a few days.

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 Post subject: Re: Drive Well Project
PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 1:28 am 
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Location: Tassie, Australia
I dont have a drive as yet & as the whole thing of doing it yourself to me means make as much as you can so Im thinking I could make my own hold down knobs. So that would be my preference.


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 Post subject: Re: Drive Well Project
PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 7:21 am 
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Location: Corpus Christi, TX
:) Thinking about my comparison between the two versions, I prefer the cam lock knob version. It doesn't take much longer to remove or install the hobie drive. And, although the click-n-go secures the drive better, I don't care for the significant weight of the Click-n-go parts. I try to avoid any weight gain.

Can you measure the depth at the deepest location from the the center of the V (inside the hull) to the top of the side frames? This dimension minus 5/32" (4 mm) will give the the height of the tallest parts. My drawings show the parts to be 4 1/2" height.

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 Post subject: Re: Drive Well Project
PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 5:22 pm 
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Location: Tassie, Australia
Hi David

Here are some pics & dimensions of my first boat.

I hope they agree with our plans Matt :o :o :o :o

First one hard on the back of frame 2.

95mm or 3 3/4"

Image

Second one about centre of my cardboard cut out of the drive well
101mm or 4"

Image

& the third one. at the rear of my cardboard cut out.

106mm or 4 3/16"

Image

Its just gone 8:20 am here in Tassie & I have to go out around 10 ish if you have any more questions


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 Post subject: Re: Drive Well Project
PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2004 8:14 pm
Posts: 4855
Location: Greensboro, NC
Which wadefish? 29 or 32?

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-Matt. Designer.


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 Post subject: Re: Drive Well Project
PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 9:10 pm 
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Posts: 205
Location: Corpus Christi, TX
Pete,

Good so far. To minimize plywood waste, the sides of your drive well can be reduced in height from 4 1/2" to 4" (4 3/16" - 5/32" = 4 1/32"). Parts A,B,C, and D can be reduced in height by 1/2".

Likewise, the assembly fixture height would be reduced to 4". Also, the assembly fixture is optional. Just use the tape and glue method to hold the parts together. Without the assembly fixture, you will just have to provide a little more care in checking to see that everything is in the right place before gluing.

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 Post subject: Re: Drive Well Project
PostPosted: Mon Dec 13, 2010 11:28 pm 
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Location: Tassie, Australia
jem wrote:
Which wadefish? 29 or 32?


29


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 Post subject: Re: Drive Well Project
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 12:23 am 
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Location: Tassie, Australia
Hi David

I started to draw up the fixture frame today from the drawings you sent last week.

I think it would be best to make up this frame as Im going to make two drive wells for my two Wadefish.

Image

I take it from your pics you cut out 3 pieces 2 with "Wings" & one without.


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 Post subject: Re: Drive Well Project
PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 12:44 am 
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Location: Tassie, Australia
Here it is already to cut out. . . . . . but that is tomorrows job.

Image


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