Canoe waterline question for Matt and whomsoever will.

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LesForgue
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Canoe waterline question for Matt and whomsoever will.

Post by LesForgue » Wed Dec 19, 2012 1:02 pm

I’m planning to include graphite in the mix for the outside bottom of my JEM Trapper 15-38 canoe.
Would like the graphite to end at the waterline, but of course the waterline is a moving target depending on the load at any given time.
This is merely a cosmetic issue – I want as much of the pretty wood to show as I can while yet having the benefits of the graphite-loaded epoxy/glass outer layer on the bottom.

With the minimum designer-recommended load of 200 lbs, would the waterline be maybe 8 inches of freeboard?

How much of a load would give about 6 inches of freeboard?

How much freeboard is predicted with the recommended maximum of 660 lbs?

Thanks.
Les Richard Forgue

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rodot
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Re: Canoe waterline question for Matt and whomsoever will.

Post by rodot » Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:13 pm

I think that the graphite finish looks a bit ordinary. Why not just graphite the bottom panels as far as the first chine. This is the area where it will cop the most damage. That would leave the rest of the boat looking nice and pretty. Just my two cents worth.

Roger
Okwata LC,
Northwind,
Quetico

LesForgue
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Re: Canoe waterline question for Matt and whomsoever will.

Post by LesForgue » Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:54 pm

I'd say your 2 cents is worth more, thanks Roger.

The graphite is not just to resist abrasion though, it is also to make the hull real slippery for passing over solid objects and thru vegetation. so I might go and apply it just a bit up the sides, not much. also a narrow strip along the very points of the bow and stern. I even picture some unsanded (left black) along the seams to imitate the look of old time canoes, which had the seams smeared with pitch after they were sewn together.
Les Richard Forgue

JGood
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Re: Canoe waterline question for Matt and whomsoever will.

Post by JGood » Thu Dec 20, 2012 9:07 am

On my first Sabalo 15, I floated it in the pool and stacked weight in the seat to simulate my weight. Then, I taped a sharpie to a sheet of foam and carefully traced the waterline. Every little motion set up waves in the pool, so it was a long process. The end results were good. After that, I have just graphited from the design water line down, which protects the vulnerable parts and hides all of the graphite when I am paddling. I don't think I would be getting in a pool in Chicago this time of year, if I were you. Good Luck

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Oldsparkey
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Re: Canoe waterline question for Matt and whomsoever will.

Post by Oldsparkey » Thu Dec 20, 2012 9:18 am

I take the ones i have made to a near by lake. Put them in the water and then sit where I will be paddling. The water marks the water line for me so when I get home I mask off the water line and then clean the bottom for the epoxy and graphite. Usually the center of the boat will give you the proper dept it is in the water , since the stern and bow depths will fluctuate with the movement in the boat.
After making a couple of boats I can guess where the water line will be and skip taking the boat to the lake to find it. :D

Chuck.
Remember:
Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler

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jem
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Re: Canoe waterline question for Matt and whomsoever will.

Post by jem » Sat Dec 22, 2012 10:06 am

The term "freeboard" gets tossed around in many different ways so I'll phrase it different:

Gunwale top at midship are 13" from hull bottom.

200#: 9" down from gunwale
325#: 8"
500#: 7"
625#: 6"
-Matt. Designer.

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