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 Post subject: Zip ties or wire and rudder cable
PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 7:34 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:59 pm
Posts: 8
Matt,

Done some serious reading re stitching.

What is your recommendation - zip ties or copper wire?
Do you have a recommended width x length for zip ties and approximately what number of ties at 4" spacings would I need for a Sabalo? Please bear in mind I have to carry all ancillary fittings to the Philippine island...yep cable ties are lighter but for sure unobtainable there hence my query.

Fitting a stainless cable operated rudder. What is the recommended routing for cable wire and do you suggest threading this thru internal hull glass taped into place copper tubing or? What have the other builders done.
The alernative is to re-inforce the main hull seam at the stern, affix a shaped to hull contour a close grained piece of wood, epoxied into place and then retro fit an external skeg approx 4'' rear width x tapering to 20 inches, instead of a rudder?

Any info for any memeber would be most appreciated.

Thanks Matt,

Ian S. :)


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 Post subject: Re: Zip ties or wire and rudder cable
PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 8:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2004 8:14 pm
Posts: 4855
Location: Greensboro, NC
that's a tough one if you're looking to thread through the hull. I've seen builders route the lines over the deck to the rudder.

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-Matt. Designer.


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 Post subject: Re: Zip ties or wire and rudder cable
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 5:08 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2008 10:12 am
Posts: 388
Location: Seaford, South Oz
Regarding ties vs wire I prefer zip ties as I suffered numerous punctures in my fingers from wire. Wire does have one advantage in that it can be eased off if a joint is too tight but if you tighten zip ties progressively this usually not a problem. If a few are too tight they can be cut and replaced easily.

From looking at the Sabalo study plan I'd guess you would need about 350 just for the hull - deck would be extra. I would take about 700 - 800 with me if I were in your situation.

As for size, thinner is better because it allows you to keep the hole size small but then you have the problem of getting them long enough. You may get away with 3 inch length but 4 would be safer / easier so my recommendation is 4" in the thinnest gauge you can find.

Good luck with it.

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Cheers, Bob

Laker 13 - christened and slimed (just).
Laker accessories underway.


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 Post subject: Re: Zip ties or wire and rudder cable
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 7:18 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:59 pm
Posts: 8
Onkabob,

Thanks for the reply and sound advice. I did go longer 4" and chose 3mm width figuring that thinner would break quicker and this comes from past experience rebuilding a Suzuki cruiser here in China. Those zip ties were 5mm wide and some snapped when tensioned.

And, I gone to 1000 in total more is better and zip are light. Sadly if any guys ever comes to this part of Asia never fly Hong Kong Air as they charge a whopping 60 USD per kg for overweight and limit the check-in weight to 20kgs. Guess what,,,my case is all tools and Sabalo fittings. Clothes consist of a couple of speedos.

Fair winds safe paddling, tight lines.

Ian S.


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 Post subject: Re: Zip ties or wire and rudder cable
PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 10:09 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2004 8:14 pm
Posts: 4855
Location: Greensboro, NC
I missed the zip tie question:

I've used all sorts of plastic cable ties. I like copper wire better. Holes are much much MUCH easier to fill in. But it's a personal preference. Copper wire takes more time to stitch.

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-Matt. Designer.


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 Post subject: Re: Zip ties or wire and rudder cable
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 1:34 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:59 pm
Posts: 8
Matt,

Thanks for the advice. I'll try to locate an armature winder and buy copper wire before setting off to the island. Can you please recommend a suitable wire gauge and possibly a back-up gauge too. More often than not...stocks are depleted!

Thanks

Ian S.


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 Post subject: Re: Zip ties or wire and rudder cable
PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 11:16 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 11:08 am
Posts: 1271
Location: Somewhere around Central Florida
Not sure about the rest of the guys .. This worked for me.

I used 18 gauge ( copper wire ) on all of the boats that I have made. It leaves a small 1/8th inch hole that is drilled for the wire to go threw.

Also I found with the 1/8th inch Luann I was using to tighten the wire after all of them were in place on the one panel and not to over tighten the wire since it will cut into the thin sheet of wood if it is twisted to tight. Start with them twisted a couple of turns by hand and then go back and use some pliers to twist the to the tightens you want them

A 4 inch length is plenty for each hole and you could go with a three inch if the holes are closer together along the seams. I like a half of an inch from the seam on mine so it makes it a full one inch apart for the holes.

Experiment to see what is good for you and then just have some fun.

Chuck.

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Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler


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