dangermouse01 builds a Wadefish 2.0

[Oldsparkey]

That's what I like to see and read , a person building a boat and having it come along the way he wants it .

Success is sweet.

Chuck.

[dangermouse01]

Thanks guys,
Mick, dont think I am a "master" of this stuff yet Learn something new on every boat, and from other peoples build pages. Thats why we are here.

I will add that the wooden disk's I used were not necessary. Putting the stud thru and just glopping thickened epoxy and maybe a small piece of cloth over the back side, would have also worked. Some may question why I would do it like that in an area that nobody will ever see once the boat is all together. Because until the boat is together, I would see a glob of epoxy there every time I looked at it and it would have bugged me. And I have seen the outside of the cockpit plenty, and will see it plenty more before the boat is finished. But thats just me.

An alternate method of mounting would have been to drill the 7/16 hole in the disk, put the stud thru, with the flange still seating inside the counter bore. Use the delrin spacer and wing nut to snug it up, then pour the thickened epoxy in the counter bore. Would have then mounted the disk on the inside of the cock pit wall.

DM

[lncc63]

I especially like how you epoxy bedded those bolts.

[dangermouse01]

Ok, so all the parts that require it now have the two coats of epoxy.
The cockpit frame.

Inside of the hull.
From the bow.

From the stern.

The pieces epoxied in at the tip of the bow and stern, are my own idea, they are for my grab handles to attach to. They will screw thru the deck pieces and into the blocks. Adds a little extra weight, but I would rather lift the boat with the load tied into the hull rather than just to the deck. The decks will be epoxied to the blocks also.
Another thing I added (not in the plans) is the deck beam. The deck on the 2.0 is 53 inches long and the original was just 40.5. I just added it to give the deck some extra support. I have no idea if it is needed. But a big surface like that just looks like the place I would sit when beached and having lunch.


I have been busier than the pictures tend to make it look.

DM

[hairymick]

I have been busier than the pictures tend to make it look

Mate, I can see how busy you have been. That would be busier than a one legged man in a butt kicking contest.

Your boat is coming along beautifully mate. I really like all the effort you are putting in to reduce the weight. Bloody lovely work.

[dangermouse01]

This is a little trick I used in building my WF2.0 so far.

The instructions state that once the outside of the hull is all tabbed with the stitches removed, you can trim the "ears" off of the lateral frames of the cockpit frame. I found that there was just enough spring in the hull that by being careful I could remove the cockpit frame with out any trimming. (I traced the edges off both the longitudinal and lateral frames on to the hull while everything was stitched up). Then once the inside was all glassed, I could carefully re-install the entire cockpit frame back into the hull, re-locate the CP frame to my lines. Ran a tie-down strap around the hull at the laterial frames and snugged them to take the spring back out of the hull and then the CP frame was in snug. Then after I checked to make sure all the deck panels and every thing was falling where they should, removed the CP frame and wrapped the edges of the lateral and longitudinal frames where they touched the hull with packing tape. Then put the CP frame back in the hull, and snugged up the straps again. The I took 8 of the cleats that I will be using to secure the CP frame to the hull and epoxied them to the hull (Not to the CP frame), two along the outside of both longitudinal frames (went on the "outside" because it brought the top edge of the cleat against the CP frame) and two along both lateral frames. The only thing important is to be sure than the all longitudinal ones are either inside or outside, same with the lateral ones. If they are one set inside and one set outside the frame is only located in one direction, free to slide to other way.
Heres the lateral ones. You can just make out the packing tape on the frame.

After the epoxy cures you can carefull remove the CP frame.

A view of all 8.

Now every time I take the CP frame out and put it back the cleats locate it back in the same position each time, side to side and front to back. A little bit tougher to get the frame in and out while the ears were still on because I had to come up a bit to clear the cleat, but it was still do-able (many times).

So then I got to thinking, when I cut the ears of the lateral frames what keeps the cockpit in location side to side? The ramp shape takes care of front to back movement. So before I cut the ears off, I turned to CP upside down, wrapped packing tape around the mating edges of the CP frame and the put it on the CP and basically did the same thing, epoxied tiny cleats on to locate it. This time I only needed 6, one at each end (just becuse I wanted them) and two one each side. CP frame in the following picture already have the ears removed, but they where still there when I added them, just no picture of that.


All six.

CP locates itself on the CP frame.


Ok, one big long post should make up for my not posting for awhile.

DM

[dangermouse01]

Oh yeah, I did finally cut the ears off the CP frame. Left them on all the way up to the step of epoxying the stringers along the inside edge of the hull, because with them on the CP frame wont fit back in with out some serious manipulating.

DM.

[Mullet_Key]

You just solved a dilemma for me... Thanks!! (Man, you must have a 5-gallon bucket full of donut holes and half-moons! )

[dangermouse01]

(Man, you must have a 5-gallon bucket full of donut holes and half-moons! )

I like to refer to them as kindling.

The cleats worked a champ. Made it easy knowing the CK wasn't moving around every time I took it out and put it back.

Don't you owe us a few new pictures? It has been awhile.

DM

[jem]

innovative! I'll have to add that tip to the assembly instructions.