Kayak Sail

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FlaMike
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Post by FlaMike »

OK, thinking about it and drawing from a memory from waaayyyy back, finding the CE of the sail can be more complicated than that.

It depends upon the shape of the sail, of course. As I think I recall, when those lines I said to draw do not cross at a single point, but two different points, the CE would then be at the center of a line drawn between the two intersections.

Well, it works something like that, anyway! :lol:

hoz, I'm sure you know more about it than I do. One thing I am sure of is, just because I occasionally can remember something, I don't always remember it right. :shock:

Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
Kayak Jack
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Post by Kayak Jack »

FlaMike wrote:... One thing I am sure of is, just because I occasionally can remember something, I don't always remember it right.
Me too - nor on time.
Kayak Jack
Doing what you like is FREEDOM
Liking what you do is HAPPINESS
I spent most of my money on whiskey and women - and I'm afraid I just wasted the rest.
hoz
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Post by hoz »

Finding the CE of a sail:

http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwate ... rea%20Math

Finding the CLR is not hard. But it depends on the part of the boat that is underwater.

So for a symmetrical canoe, find or estimate the waterline then divide that in half. That is the CLR (or close enough to it for govmnt work).

Another "hands on" way is to wade next to your canoe on a windless day. Push on the gunnel in the middle of the canoe. You have found the CLR when the canoe heads straight away without one end veering.

Now though you need to add 10% lead to adjust for heeling. As a canoe heels it wants to head off in the opposite direction.

Jack will soon have all the info in his hands. He is reading "Canoe Rig, the Essence and the Art" by Todd Bradshaw. A great canoe sailing reference.

Image
Oldsparkey
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Post by Oldsparkey »

Some of you have seen this.
John is into canoe sailing and has been in 7 regattas as of the date I posted this on the forum.

http://www.neilbank.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4349

Chuck.
Remember:
Amateurs built the Ark...... Professionals built the Titanic
Visit some fine paddlers at The Southern Paddler
FlaMike
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Post by FlaMike »

I've already clued in to the fact that I won't be needing a rudder for use while paddling, but I'm also convinced that a rudder would be handy for use while fishing.

Now, I'm thinking there's at least one more thing that adding a rudder would be good for. . . Sailing! :D

Yes, it's looks to be fairly easy to use the paddle as a rudder, but while sailing, think how much more relaxing it would be to sit back and tend the sail with one hand, use the other as a drink or rod holder, and steer with rudder pedals!

Now including a rudder is sounding like a good idea, after all. :wink:

Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
FlaMike
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Post by FlaMike »

Just in case anyone following this thread hasn't seen the similar one on Old Sparkey's, take a look at this:

Developing The Vinta

This rig could be almost directly copied across to just about any of Matt's designs in the 15 foot range (including Southwind 15-30,) and easily adapted to smaller or larger boats.

Then look at the thread of Mick's on adding a rudder, along with the other rudder discussions on this Forum and you'll see where the parts from Duckworks would make doing this much easier.

Now, I am wondering if there is any way to dye Tyvek to a nice, tanbark-looking shade. . . :D

Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
hoz
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Post by hoz »

FlaMike wrote:J
Developing The Vinta

This rig could be almost directly copied across to just about any of Matt's designs in the 15 foot range (including Southwind 15-30,) and easily adapted to smaller or larger boats.

Now, I am wondering if there is any way to dye Tyvek to a nice, tanbark-looking shade. . . :D

Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL

Image
It may have a bit too much sail for a 28" wide boat, unless you add "training wheels" (ama and akas). I'd reduce the sail area to 25-30 sq ft to be on the safe side.

BTW, if you have any luck coloring Tyvek let me know. I makemy sails out of the stuff and they sure get a lot of comments from the big sailboats at the local lake.
FlaMike
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Post by FlaMike »

Thanks for the advice, hoz!

I understand and agree with a reduction in sail area for the Southwind 15-30. About the last thing I'd want would be to add "training wheels." If I wanted a trimaran, I'd have built on to begin with. (And I don't.)

I'll be watching the mail for a tyvek envelope, and looking about elsewhere, as well. I'll try the old-fashion method of coloring it, a long soak in a hot, strong solution of tea. :)

Mike S.
Spring Hill, FL
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Post by Kayak Jack »

I'm betting that if you soak it in water with husks of black walnuts - it will take the color. Dad used to mark his steel traps for muskrat and fox that way, and they'd hold color for two to three years.
Kayak Jack
Doing what you like is FREEDOM
Liking what you do is HAPPINESS
I spent most of my money on whiskey and women - and I'm afraid I just wasted the rest.
hoz
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Post by hoz »

In "Canoe Rig" Todd mentions coloring nylon rope with oil based stain to make it look "period". He admits it's a stinky messy operation but likes the results.

Tyvek, on the other hand, isn't nylon. I believe it's actually polypropylene which is even more slippery.

I researching glues for Tyvek I read that nothing really works well except electronic sealing. Some acrylic glues seem to hold, far a while. Maybe latex paint?
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