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Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2008 11:54 pm
by LEE SCHNEIDERMANN
Oldsparkey wrote:
Mick...
I noticed a bulge in the sides of the top panel , Folks need to know this is a normal item till you get the rails on which true out the top of the canoe or boat.
Without anything to support the top there is always a bulge or mis shape but it vanishes when the support is there , as in the boat when completed.
I am sure Mick will have a picture of the after when the rails are on.....
Chuck.
Yep,
Had the same phenomenon on my "freedom" build. Everyone was freaked out about it until the gunwhales went on and smoothed it all out.
Lee
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 1:00 am
by Kayak Jack
I noticed those little bulges too. Thought maybe Mick need a starter bra for his canoe.
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 6:58 am
by hairymick
Thanks guys,
was just to sick to even think of mentioning it.
Major problems today with glass wet out on the inside.
I tried to do the whole inside in one go with a single sheet of cloth.
Try as I might, I just couldn't get the cloth to conform to the hull shape. I have had to cut the cloth into smaller, more manageable sections and even then have had problems with the cloth "floating" in the resin in patches - lots of them.
Even working with the smaller patches, the heat beat me several times with the resin going off before I could get it worked in properly. Some serious sanding and scraping is ahead and then applying lots of small patches over my patches allready there.
This tight weave stuff I am using wets out beautifully but it is a real SPAM to use on concave curves. Probably wouldn't be so bad if I had more time to work with my resin.
Having a touch of dejavu in that the problems I am having here are reminiscent of my swamp girl build. entirely my own fault in that I am trying to do it while the weather is just too hot. Lots of sanding tomorrow.
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 2:35 pm
by Kayak Jack
Tight weave cloth in concave features didn't work for me either. Maybe, cutting it into long, narrow pieces? Say, 1' - 2' wide? Wider where there is less curve for it to conform to, narrower where curve is more pronounced?
I simply decided to remain with loose weave that better accommodates my dedicated hamfisted klutsmanship.
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:29 pm
by Oldsparkey
hairymick wrote:
This tight weave stuff I am using wets out beautifully but it is a real SPAM to use on concave curves. Probably wouldn't be so bad if I had more time to work with my resin.
Mick.
I wish I could add some answer for your problems but I have never had a bad time with the tight woven cloth. For that reason I have no idea what could be causing the headaches for you.
You might of hit on the answer since I do take a lot of time when working with it. It is a time consuming affair involving a lot of patience and time.
The outside of the boat is done in one piece and the same for the inside. I use the 3.25 tight woven and not the heavier stuff most of the time , that might be part of it.
I even went to 10 oz on one boat for the hull , that took a lot of epoxy , really a lot. I will not be doing that again , learned my lesson that time.
Same thing with the 1.5 oz cloth... That is like working with tissue paper , horrible. It never stays where you want it , look at it cross eyed and it will move.
Before you ask ... I wanted it under the decking on one boat as a safety measure to make sure the wood was protected from water ( the elements) if any would ever get in there , which none has as of yet.
Chuck.
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 4:39 pm
by hairymick
Thanks for the tips guys,
I thought about cuttin the cloth into 12" stips and use it like wide tape, but when I unrolled it and lay it out in the hull it seemed to conform well so I decided "What the heck" and got stuck into it.
Once I started to wet out however, the stuff seemed to take on a mind of it own.
The coolest it has been getting here lately is around 85f in the dead of night and I am finding about 15 minutes pot life, even using a large roller tray is about as much as I can hope for.
I went down the shed last night after my last post and scraped off the worst of the lumps and bumps and likewise feathered the edges of the cloth. Also wet out some smaller patches in the ends and applied a second filler coat to what was there.
Doesn't look so bad now. Got a long strip to put in on either side today (and lots of little patches)
Oh yeah, I also made a start on the gunwhales & spacers yesterday. Hope to fit the outer rail either today or tomorrow.
I propbably should leave it till I am feeling better. At least the fever has broken and today looks like it will be a little cooler. I am actually wearing a shirt. (first time in 4 days)
Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 5:36 pm
by dawallace45
Mick
Can't you get tropical hardener for your epoxy ? that is what I use , gives me a longer pot life
David
Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 4:37 am
by hairymick
G'day Dave,
I didn't even think of it. I am real happy with the West Systems 207 stuff that I am using, It is just too hot for any sane person to be trying to use it is all.
Got very sick of sanding today so I fitted the outer gunwhale instead.

Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 5:07 am
by dawallace45
Mick
I was using Bote-cote epoxy with tropical hardener up in Clermont when it was 42*C in the shade and got good pot life , the only problem was the amount of beer I needed to drink to ward off the dreaded tropical dehydration .
David
Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:12 am
by Bemm 52
Mick
The West system product guide gives207 hardner a pot life of 22-27 minutes at 72degreesF (22 degrees C) This isn't real hot when you consider Aussie summer temps.
I've used 206 on previous builds and had no problems,but I did notice in product specs that 207 is a 3:1mix not 5:1
My next build I want to have as much wood finished bright as I can.
Did you choose 207 because you were dissatisfied with finish of205 or 206?
Get well enjoy reading your build reports
