Narwhale wrote:Matt,
That is pretty slick looking...must be a larger, swedish form Laker.
What are the basic measurements and expected displacements?
Do you have strong feelings over a single large cockpit vs two smaller ones?
Is it a slight V-bottom, or flat?
Rich S.
It is a hybrid of several design style I have.
She is 19'10 x 30". Mick I know you have concern about getting up around 30" but she will be easy to paddle with the tumblehome panels and trust me.... she's gonna be quick! I need those couple extra inches to get the displacement with kayak performance.
I planned on 2 cockpit configurations: 2 individual and 1 long one. Maybe some different sizes with the individuals.
4" waterline will hold 460 lbs gross.
4.5" : 538
5": 613
It has generous rocker so it should handle waves ok. It's still a long tandem so the skill of both paddlers will be a main factor. The front has a continuous flare so punching over waves should not be an issue.
I might raise the bow height just a bit more but I don't want to go too high so the wind grabs it and turns it into a sail.
Matt, that is perfect for my needs, 30" is fine, My partner will love this boat and the extra stability will be a bonus.
Would you like to do this as a custom job? no problem, -just let me know mate. eitherway, please draw it up as shown, - 2 cockpits etc. This will be my next build.
I'm inspired again!!!
Last edited by hairymick on Sat May 22, 2010 5:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
She seemed to draw up easy. Didn't have to fight with it. So it's getting done next. As with all new designs, it's the assembly instructions that take the longest.
Slightly higher bow would be a very good thing mate.
Craig, this bottom shape is very similar to a Laker. I have surfed in mine and the difference between this bow shap and a more traditional S&G is remarkable!
The traditional sea kayak bow in all sea kayaks, all of them, tends to make the boat pearl to varying degrees when running down the face of a wave. The bow on these boats works more like a surfboard and the boats are way less likely to broach on the paddler.
The downside is that when punching into waves or chop, they tend to pound a bit when crashing over the wave tops as opposed to parting them like a spear. As in all things kayak, everything is a compromise.
Matt is the 30 inch width at the top or bottom,what is the bottom width.
You might think about making a top mounted rudder,it has several advantages,simple mounting ,just a hole threw the top deck into an endpour.,so shape of the stern is no problem. Also by beinng mounted higher you never have water drag on the brackets. I notice most of the K1 are going to this mount.
Ron
....just know I'm going to dream of this kayak tonight...
....I know I'm getting old when I dream at night of boats instead of hot, fast young things......
hairymick wrote:Slightly higher bow would be a very good thing mate.
Craig, this bottom shape is very similar to a Laker. I have surfed in mine and the difference between this bow shap and a more traditional S&G is remarkable!
The traditional sea kayak bow in all sea kayaks, all of them, tends to make the boat pearl to varying degrees when running down the face of a wave. The bow on these boats works more like a surfboard and the boats are way less likely to broach on the paddler.
The downside is that when punching into waves or chop, they tend to pound a bit when crashing over the wave tops as opposed to parting them like a spear. As in all things kayak, everything is a compromise.
Thanks Mick. I have been considering building a tandem and this would be easily adapted to a plywood/Cedar Strip Hybrid.
Regards,
Craig
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If I had more clamps, I could build more boats.
