Dan's DK18

[davaodan]

Morten has designed the 18 foot dinghy to be longer and wider and more seaworthy than the 15’ dinghy, and the freeboard height is relatively larger, so the cruise will be dryer and more comfortable.

The boat is with the same fine lines as her little sister. However the aft ship is changes a bit to make the boat more suitable for a large outboard, a possibility that has been much requested for the 15' Dinghy. So the 18' Dinghy will carry an outboard up to 20 hp (recommended minimum 5 hp), so there should be plenty of speed potential.

The extra 3 feet has been used to make a real outboard well aft and making the seats wider and more comfortable. Due to the innovative use of the plywood it succeeded to make this version without the intermediate frames, making the passing from one thwart to the next without any obstacles.

Main dimensions:
Length overall = 5,480 m
Beam = 1,456 m
Depth = 0,859 m
Draft = 0,150 m
Displacement = 612 kg / 1349 lbs.
Hull weight = 85 kg / 187 lbs.
Passengers = up to 4
Outboard = 5 - 20 HP

I live in Davao City in the Philippines and I think this boat will work very well on my Samal Island beach property. It will be used for fishing, sightseeing and transportation.

I bought the plywood on November 18, 2008 and now it is lofted and awaiting assembly. From five sheets of 5mm I have 59.5 lbs. of pieces. The 9mm stock yielded 100lbs of cut pieces for a total of 160lbs of cut plywood. Morton stated the weight of the finished boat is 187 lbs. Even though I used 5mm plywood instead of 6mm I doubt I can match that. I will be glassing all of the seams of course as well as the exterior. Then paint will add weight. I bought some plastic film as used for covering books to place over the fiberglass butt seams for the hull panels. After finishing the fibreglass and before it sets I place the plastic film over the work and add a flat sheet of galvanized iron with added weight on top. I believe this will make much smoother seams. I will be using a strongback to hold the frames in their exact spacing.

I have ordered oarlocks from Duckworks in the USA and they are on the way. I am also looking to have someone bring back a small Danforth anchor. With chain that seems to be enough to hold this dinghy. I have also started the process of ordering an eight horse Yamaha from Manila.

Today since I had finished butt joining the bottom panel I started making the strongback. Using my workbench as a strongback made the whole process easy. Although about a foot short I was able to extend the workbench to make a connection to the last seat frame. Then I placed the bottom panel on top and re-measured all the spacing and after adjustments temporarily secured the panel with nails. I am continuing to butt join all the panels and that takes time. I have been doing about 1 panel per day. I now have two more panels to join. The size of this project is pushing the limits of my shop.

This is my shop area and workbench. The workbench will be the strongback.


This is the butt spliced 9mm bottom panel.


Only four of the seven frames can fit on the strongback, this is a long boat.


Here the bottom panel is adjusted on the frames. This surface is now my temporary workbench.


This is the back view showing my workbench extension for the frame E.

[jem]

Looking forward to seeing this one built. I bet it will be popular.

[davaodan]

Here is todays addition, the second side panels of the hull. It is starting to take shape. I also added two more frames or bulkheads. I have yet to put the transom on.

[davaodan]

Shown here is the workbench I used for the strongback. It holds everything nicely in place at the proper level and in alignment.


This side panel has been fully stitched. I had some problem with frame D, I had to saw and chisel it on both sides to enable the chine panel to fit. I am not sure if I made a measurement mistake, probably. But it is easily fixed in any event.

And the view from the stern...

And the other side is almost completely stitched.

The next step is to check the alignment.

[davaodan]

This forum is very quiet. Anyone want to comment? When I turn this boat over for interior work I will be looking for suggestions on how to create the storage and flotation spaces. How to stow the oars, and any other ideas anyone may have.

Here the copper stitching wires have been pulled and I am plugging the holes with pegs.

[lncc63]

This what I want to do with mine Dan ...



but I'm waiting for you to finish yours. One reason is I'm not so sure anymore about the 8hp OB being good enough.

[davaodan]

Hi Louis,

I think the 8 hp engine will be enough to move this boat along. I hope you try to get a long shaft as I feel the clearances for the short shaft with a tiller extension might give problems. That sun shade top looks very nice along with the central steering console but I think the console mounting will interfere in easily moving to secure moorage on the bow. I am not sure how resistant this boat is to tipping as it quite light. Peter and I will get some of the wrinkles ironed out and then you can make better decisions. Good thinking though for storage, I plan on a round hatch on the vertical bow frame for storage/flotation.

Dan in Davao

[lncc63]

Thanks Dan. Yes, I'm eager to hear how it turns out. I'll sure make adjustments based on what I hear from you guys.

I don't really have a good sense of how much walking space they'll be between the gunwale and the side of the console, or necessary for that matter (I've little experience on such boats). The only reason I put a central console was to put the weight center. In our sun, I don't think we really have a choice if we want to stay out long. I do worry about the windage though.

I think you may have something there with the dowels. I used epoxy on the stitch holes of my other boats and the epoxy would always shrink, not too much trouble but still.

[davaodan]

As you know Louis the beam is 4' 9" and if your console is two feet wide it will only leave 1 1/2 feet on either side, but that's not too restrictive. Perhaps a side console would do the trick. You need the seat all the way across for the rigidity and support it offers the hull so you cannot take the seat out. I will make do with piloting from the stern.

I am interested in a bimini top but I know very little about building one. Your drawing shows minimal top exposure to the wind. I think the hull height is the controlling factor in windage and the lightness of the boat makes it react to that force more readily. Fold it up if you feel the wind pressure is too much.

Filling the holes with epoxy is fine too. I will be covering the outside of the hull with fiberglass, and maybe the inside. I am thinking of two or more keels to keep the plywood away from the coral and rocks and also to add stiffness.

This is the fourth boat I've built, and always increasing in size. My almost completed boathouse is 24 feet long. I wonder what's next? My wife just shakes her head.

Dan in Davao

[Derek Bowen]

Mayan Buntag Dan, You say your going to put 1 or 2 keels on the bottom. A while ago İ used to run a 10m pump boat around Camiguin island. İ installed a skeg made of red lua-an 2.5cm thick down the center line, about 25 cm at the stern tapering off to nothing under the bow and layed a 4mm thick stainless steel strip along the whole length. Lots of epoxy and SS wood screws. When İ bumped a rock it was the rock that was in trouble. İ got the SS strip from a scrap yard in Cagayan De Oro city. İm sure you will find the same in Davao. They sell it by kilo price so its quite cheap.
Bomshankar, Derek.